by Mark Bailey | Apr 27, 2016 | GardenLife Magazine
A shed is “a slight structure built for shelter or storage or for use as a workshop”, according to the Oxford English Dictionary, but that old-fashioned definition of the shed seriously underplays the possibilities of the modern shed (especially our best posh garden sheds).
To be sure, 21st-century sheds can provide shelter, storage and workshop space. But they’re certainly not all slight. And they’re also being used as offices, entertainment spaces, extra rooms, dens, summer rooms, workshops and much more besides.
Given the way that sheds have metamorphosed in the past few years, it’s not surprising that many people are now talking about ‘posh sheds’. It’s a great way to distinguish them from the old-style lean-tos where people kept their gardening tools.
At the same time, don’t let the term ‘posh shed’ cast a false impression. It doesn’t have to be the type of grand or eccentric design you’d see on TV programmes such as Shed of the Year. Nor does it have to cost a five-figure sum, contain an Aga, or house your very own garden pub – despite some of the articles you might see in newspapers or magazines.
What we really mean by a ‘posh shed’ comes down to three basic elements:
- High quality construction
- Range of use
- Beautiful design
1. The construction of a posh garden shed
At GardenLife, our first criterion for a garden building to count as ‘posh’ is that the construction and materials are first-rate. Importantly, the timber used is dense and robust, and solid enough that you can spend time in the shed on cooler days (without having to pile on multiple coats, scarves and gloves).
For instance, our Roe beachhouse design (below) and Truro log cabin style designs (feature image above) are suitable for gardens with limited space – i.e. you don’t need a country estate to install them. But, they’re made from 28mm solid timber with superb insulation qualities.
They’ve also got real glass windows, and solid timber roof and floor; there’s not a trace of OSB board or plywood to be found. Owing to their high-quality materials, they’re insulated enough to use through spring and autumn, and has excellent longevity and durability.
The quality is also apparent in small design details such as the quality of the fittings and the front overhang that gives protection from sun or showers. So, these sheds are posh, whilst still being affordable.
There’s a similar story with another of our best posh garden sheds, the Ure garden room. The design isn’t flamboyant and won’t alienate the neighbours, but look carefully and it’s far from being your run-of-the-mill garden shed. With 44mm timber walls, it offers exceptional insulation – meaning you can have your New Year’s Day lunch in there, as well as drinks on a summer evening.
2. The uses for a posh garden shed
There are basically no limits to the uses for a posh garden shed (at least within the limits of the law). Our customers use them as places to entertain, chill out, run a business, do yoga, play the drums, star gaze and any number of other things.
Take the versatile Brook, a shed that’s of such quality and style that we call it a log cabin. Some of our customers go the traditional route of using it to store garden equipment or mend their bikes. But others use it as a writing room, man cave or kids’ playden.
In effect, then, a posh garden shed is a way to get more living space, without the hassle and expense of building an extension. Or to improve your lifestyle, through entertaining in greater style, starting a hobby, working from home, or having your own space. What else is it about our best posh garden sheds?
3. The design of our best posh garden sheds
One other way for a shed to be ‘posh’ is in the design and styling, and the only limits here are your own style preferences (and perhaps the planning permission rules where you live).
There is now a vast choice of timber building styles available to buy – not just traditional shapes such as summer house or beach hut styles. For example, our Dutch barn shed is definitely a step up from your standard toolshed, and it’s available in different sizes.
Those who prefer more contemporary styling also have the options of sophisticated modular designs, such as our modern Fiona garden room. It’s popular with customers as a garden office, and its double-glazed windows and insulation options make it ideal for year-round usage.
Modern styles like Fiona (above) are also quick and easy to assemble yourself – fortunately, not all ‘posh’ sheds require weeks to make, advanced DIY skills, or the services of an artisan shed-builder.
Adding your own design details can also make your shed ‘posh’ – from exterior paintwork to the furnishings inside. Sites such as Pinterest can provide excellent interior design ideas, and you can even check out our customers decorating pics. Or, if your posh shed already has first-rate timber, construction and fittings, you may prefer to keep it simple and let the quality of the materials speak for itself.
Either way, you can sit back and bask in some serious shed envy from the neighbours if you decide to enjoy one of our best posh garden sheds.
![Spring gardening jobs – our top ten list]()
by Mark Bailey | Mar 14, 2016 | GardenLife Magazine, How to guide
Gardens can look desolate in March, despite the valiant efforts of spring sunshine and blooming snowdrops, daffodils and crocuses. Lawns can look ragged, pale and full of moss, flower and vegetable beds bare, and the ravages of winter storms are on full display. Even so, March is also an exciting time for anyone with a garden. The days are longer, there’s some warmth in the sun, and it’s time to get started on creating a beautiful (but practical) living and entertaining space for the summer. Here are some top tips for spring gardening jobs.
1. Hold back on the seeds
With shops full of seeds, the temptation is to get planting immediately. But don’t start sowing too early in March. We’re still likely to have some frosts, especially in Scotland and northern England, and you should wait for the ground to warm up. But there are plenty of projects to start instead, and you can also start planting some veg in the greenhouse or indoors.
2. Go on pest patrol
Take action against slugs, which could ravage new spring shoots, especially hostas. Whatever your preferred methods – physical, organic or chemical – for protecting your garden against slugs, it’s time to deploy them. Onto more spring gardening jobs.
3. Your lawn needs you
Early spring is the time to get the lawnmower out of storage. If you have a few rain-free days, and the grass is dry, do a gentle mowing session, with the lawnmower on its highest setting. If the lawn is particularly long you might want to consider cutting it one day on a high setting, then the next day going over it again on a slightly lower setting (trying to cut a long damp lawn on a low setting could stress the lawn mower and wear you out too). The RHS website has lots of advice on cutting lawns in early spring.
4. Be nourishing
Top dress containers with new compost, ready for the growing season, and consider adding some plant food or bonemeal to help and sustain healthy growth. You can also tidy borders, and mulch them with compost or manure. If you have a wood burning stove you can add your wood ash to beds and the carbon will help invigorate the earth. The soil has a hard summer ahead, and needs all the nutrients it can get.
5. Deal with weeds
It’s useful to tackle weeds early in the year before they get out of hand. It’s also easier to spot them if beds and borders are relatively empty, and remember to check cracks in patios and paths for weeds too.
6. Get busy in the greenhouse
Before your greenhouse gets too cluttered with seedlings, or festooned with summer tomatoes, take a good hard look around you, and notice the dust, cobwebs and dirt. It’s a dirty job, but one of these essential spring gardening jobs.
Cleaning and disinfecting benches, floor, windows and even pots and seed trays will help get rid of any diseases or bugs that have wintered in your greenhouse. Jeyes Fluid is widely recommended, or garden centres may recommend other products. Make sure everything dries and ventilates thoroughly before you start planting seedlings and cuttings.
7. Get the really boring jobs over for the year
Repair post-winter fences and trellises; clean and sharpen gardening tools; and tidy the garden shed so that you can reach the lawnmower without falling over two spades and a sunshade. Maybe make a shopping list of all those things that you regularly need throughout the year, such as buying some extra compost (if you don’t make you’re own), plant food, new tree stakes and ties, and pest control pellets. Much better to do these jobs now and have supplies read when you need them.
8. Make plans for your garden
Although the site of snowdrops and late frosts make it too early for some planting, it’s not too early to plan. Get looking at catalogues, websites and the like, and try something new. Check out our garden design ideas and inspirational photos on Pinterest. If you leave this until June or July, you’ll just be kicking yourself that all your amazing new discoveries needed to be planted out in April.
9. Think big
The emptiness of a March garden makes this the best time to dream up a project. Look around you with a fresh but harsh eye. Do you really like those shrubs in the corner? Has that beloved forsythia actually grown far too tall? Has the buddleia taken over a favourite corner? Would the end of your garden become much usable if you installed a summerhouse? Wouldn’t it be wonderful to work in a garden office this summer?
10. More advice on spring gardening jobs
Without further delay, get browsing, whether it’s a seed catalogue; a social media site with ideas for patios; or a collection of garden buildings or summer houses. Your plans may turn the Easter break into a gruelling 72-hour DIY or gardening marathon, but they will set you up for a wonderful garden summer.
For other good ideas on spring gardening jobs, there’s some great advice at:
The weekend newspapers (or their archives) are also a good source of seasonal gardening advice and spring gardening jobs. A word of caution though – national newspapers may well be geared towards readers in southern England. If you live in a colder, northern area, you may want to delay their advice by a fortnight or so.
![How to get the most out of your garden in winter: patio, pergola or gazebo]()
by Mark Bailey | Feb 17, 2016 | GardenLife Magazine
Winters (and summers) seem to be getting wetter, so if you’re fed up of not being able to use and enjoy your garden when it’s wet, check out our guide to the best design solutions that incorporate a patio, pergola or gazebo:
You don’t need us to remind you it’s been a wet winter. Even if you were lucky enough not to have your home affected by flooding or storms, your garden may well still bear the scars. Mostly in the form of mud and waterlogged paths and sodden lawns. So, given that we may get similar wet winters (and summers) in future years, we’ve put together some easy-to-manage garden design ideas that should take you through rain, more rain, and mud – whatever the season.
Look down, look up
Solution 1 is to think about what’s underfoot, using patios and paths to create dry areas whatever the weather. So, as soon as the rain stops, you can get outside without sinking into mud or grass-turned-bog.
Solution 2 is to think about what’s above, using pergolas, gazebos and other garden buildings to create some shelter from the rain. And, fingers crossed, they will also help you shelter from the overhead sun if there’s a good summer.
The beauty of both solutions – patios or gazebos – is that they can be relatively simple DIY projects.
Garden patio checklist
As well as providing a mud-free area, patios can add interest to a garden, and act as a focal point. And they don’t automatically have to be next to the house.
A few basic rules:
- A good strong base is crucial, with sand and gravel usually recommended
- How thick the base should be depends on the soil and drainage in your garden
- The patio should sit slightly above the surrounding area so water can drain off
- The patio shouldn’t be completely level and should be edged by gravel to allow heavy rain to quickly soak away
- When digging the base, stay well away from places where you know there are tree roots, or utilities cables and pipes
For some other useful tips, take a look at the DIY Network website.
Patio designs and patterns
More exciting than the practical dos and don’t s is choosing materials and patterns. On materials, you’ll find huge choices of new or recycled pavers at DIY stores and builders merchants. Recycled bricks and stones are an eco-friendly option – you can either re-use them as they are (though this will usually entail having colour variations) or buy new pavers made from recycled materials.
On patterns, there are five basic patterns: circular, herringbone, basket weave, European fan pattern, and running bond. Or for a more ambitious choice of patterns and layouts try Paving Expert, this has useful grids, which you can adapt for your own garden on graph or squared paper.
If you do want to build your own patio as a spring project, there are hundreds of websites and YouTube videos giving step-by-step instructions. If you want to take your patio to the next level, then covering it with a pergola or wooden gazebo is the next step.
The patio pergola combination
Obviously, the best way to enjoy your garden during rain is to buy or build a cabin, workroom or summer house. But if that doesn’t fit your budget or garden design, a pergola can provide visual interest and weather shelter.
The idea of the pergola dates back to the Italian Renaissance, when people started to use wooden structures with crossbeams and climbing plants to create shade. Some were just focal points for the eye – a beautiful arch of plants at the entry to a garden. Others were more like a tunnel of shade – somewhere to stroll or sit away from the sun.
Whilst finding some shade may not be your immediate priority, a pergola could be a great spring DIY project that would perk up your garden design all year round. And the design style doesn’t have to be traditional – nowadays you’re as likely to find minimalist pergolas using modern materials.
There are some beautiful ideas for pergolas on the HGTV website; check out the wonderful outdoor reading room, with grass coming through the pavers.
The all in one solution: a self-build garden gazebo
A step up from wooden pergola is the garden gazebo; gazebos are typically built from timber and incorporate a pitched roof to ensure the occupants remain dry even when it’s pouring. Gazebos range from simple square shape designs to more unusual octagonal bandstand-style gazebos, and other gazebos feature window proofing too (protecting you from the prevailing winds whilst remaining light and airy.
Gazebos typically feature a wooden decking area, an alternative to patio pavers which aren’t everyone’s cup of tea. However, a wood gazebo could easily be built over an existing paved patio, or fixed onto decking.
If you don’t want the hassle of designing and installing a patio decking then you could consider a wooden gazebo designed for home install, as many of these come with timber flooring. Gazebos are handsome, affordable and easy-to-build, so if a DIY pergola sounds too much for you, buying a self-build gazebo might be the best option.
An added dimension
Finally, if you do want a plant-bedecked gazebo or pergola – whether traditional or modern in style – there are easy planting suggestions at Perfect Pergolas, including vines, clematis and honeysuckle. Jasmine is also a popular and fragrant option and there are ideas and recommendations for climbing roses for pergolas on the Royal Horticultural Society website.
Having planted them, you’ll need to persuade them to grow beautifully around your structure, for example, using pruning or training the stems to avoid the common problem of having bare stems lower down the gazebo.
Patio, pergola or gazebo?
Obviously it takes time to create a patio, pergola or gazebo – in particular growing plants, but with a self-build timber gazebo, you could easily have one in place for summer. If you have any questions about any of the GardenLife garden gazebos please don’t hesitate to get in touch.
![Keeping chickens in your garden? What you should know]()
by Mark Bailey | Jan 21, 2016 | GardenLife Magazine
Thinking of keeping chickens in your back garden?
Until a few years back, there were five ‘typical’ British family pets: dogs, cats, rabbits, guinea pigs and hamsters (in no particular order). But there now seems to be a sixth on the list: chickens. Keeping chickens is now a fairly common practice in suburbia, and the humble hen is a regular inhabitant of the UK’s back gardens. The benefit of keeping chickens is clear: not many other pets lay you an egg most mornings!
They also make friendly pets: there’s something very endearing about a free-range hen racing across the garden to greet you, with a level of enthusiasm that only a dog could equal. The clucking of contented hens also adds a new level of homeliness to a back garden.
Which henhouse is best for keeping chickens?
The rising popularity of back garden chicken-keeping has been fuelled by the growing range of henhouses on the market, in particular, the plastic ‘Eglus’, available in multiple colours from Omlet. The compact designs fit easily into even small-ish back gardens, need minimal maintenance, and are easy to clean (this is important for keeping the hens parasite-free). Prices start from £235.
If you’re not a fan of brightly coloured plastic, and want a more traditional timber henhouse, the same buying principles apply as with any timber garden building. Look at the quality of:
- the timber – you want dense, robust, slow-grown softwood timber for extra insulation and longevity (or if the budget allows, hardwood)
- timber treatment – ensure that the timber is treated with a pet friendly wood preserver to enhance its lifespan
- the fittings – you want them to be solid and rustproof
- the construction – look for pressure-treated foundation joists, a strong build and a good-quality roof
You should also pay attention to ventilation: chickens are vulnerable to respiratory problems, and ammonia can build up from their droppings.
How much space do I need for keeping chickens?
According to PoultryKeeper.com (a great source of advice for would-be hen owners), each chicken should have a minimum of 1 sq metre in the run, though 2 sq m per bird is preferable. If space in your garden is limited, it’s possible to buy high-rise runs, such as Omlet’s Eglu Go Up coop, where the run is underneath the henhouse.
Keeping chickens in a back garden; do I need permission?
In the UK, you do not generally need permission unless you want to keep 50 or more chickens (in which case, you need permission from Defra – the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs). However, you may be subject to byelaws, lease conditions or the deeds to your house preventing you from keeping chickens, and there are rules that may apply to back-garden poultry keepers. Interesting, laws relating to livestock also apply to chickens, and there have been instances where local councils have been involved in cases with ‘nuisance’ hens (more on that below).
In the first instance you should always also consult neighbours. Chickens can be noisy (eg when laying eggs, or when keen to be let out of their henhouse on light early mornings); smelly, if their henhouse is not cleaned weekly; and damaging to neighbouring gardens if they repeatedly escape. If you have neighbours who are proud of their immaculate garden they will be far from happy if they see escaped hens digging up their meticulously planted flower beds!
If your hens do regularly escape it will be your responsibility to stop this from happening, and you can do this quite simply by running chicken wire or plastic trellis around the bottom of your fence or hedge. If your hens are able to fly over boundary fences then you can clip their wings, keeping them on terra firma. It really is worth doing both of these things as persistent damage to a neighbours gardenscan quickly turn even the best of relationships sour. In an article on problem chickens David Fleming (head of the property litigation department at William Heath & Co.) outlined that under the Animals Act 1971 that people who keep chickens in suburbia are liable for “damage caused by trespassing ‘livestock'”. If things turn nasty between neighbours action can be taken by way of the Council Environmental Health Officer, and chicken owners are liable for damage caused by escaping chickens (as well as costs incurred).
If you’re thinking of keeping chickens in your own back garden then you really need to check with your neighbours first, and also ensure that your hens cannot escape. Many of the other associated problems can be minimised – for example, there’s good advice on reducing noise in this PDF. The occasional gift of freshly-laid eggs can also keep neighbours well disposed towards the hens.
How many chickens should I buy?
Chickens are gregarious birds and need company. Common advice is to buy three – this means that if one dies (and, sadly, chickens are vulnerable to a range of problems, from respiratory problems to foxes), you are not left with a depressed, lonely hen. Also, if you intend to buy young chicks it’s best to do so in summer; young chicks can’t cope with cold and can be killed if the temperature drops too low at night (for instance, if there’s an unexpected frost late in spring).
Should I buy a cockerel?
No! In case there’s any confusion about that, no! Unless you live in the middle of nowhere, have no neighbours and intend to breed chickens, then there is no need to buy a cockerel. Hens are perfectly happy without a cockerel, and cockerels don’t lay eggs but they do consume just as much feed (which will push your maintenance expenses up).
In summer, when days are longer, cockerels can crow from as early as three in morning and they won’t stop until midnight (and treble glazing and ear plugs aren’t enough to block out the sound from some birds)! Keeping a cockerel in suburbia is the fastest way to lose friends and alienate people (not to mention the threat of visits from the Council about noise pollution and possible legal action from sleepless neighbours).
Where can I buy chickens?
Forums and advice boards on sites such as Omlet and PoultryKeeper.com should have details about where you can buy hens locally. Generally, look for birds with clean eyes; and an upper and lower beak that meet in the middle. Signs of poor health may include lots of muck on the feathers around the vent; or raised scales (eg sticking out at 90 degrees) on the legs and feet.
Will chickens ruin my garden?
More than likely! Chickens do scratch up the ground with their feet, meaning they can quickly reduce the grass in their run to a dust bowl or bog (depending on the weather), and they can leave droppings on paths, patios and decking areas if they are allowed out of the pen.
If your hens are free-range, you will find they have a particular affection for scratching around in window boxes, posts, containers and newly-planted beds (and they can easily dig up flowers you have just carefully planted). Stones at the base of plants or in pots can help to prevent this, however some hens will gleefully dig up slate and gravel paths in search for worms (spreading stones everywhere).
They may also lay waste to your vegetable patch (unless you fence it off), so although you will have lovely fresh eggs to cook with, your veg may not look up to its usual standard. You can read about which plants chickens eat, or will avoid. Ultimately, if you don’t want your hens to make a mess of your nice tidy garden they will need to be penned in.
Where should I position the henhouse and run?
Chickens can overheat easily, so need the option of shade. But they also seem to enjoy sunbathing, so a mix of sun and shade is ideal. Some poultry keeping websites advise putting the run against a garden wall, as it provides the chickens with shelter and a sense of security. The ground around the run should be even – both chickens and foxes are expert at finding their way underneath chicken wire.
Other than that, it is a question of garden design and individual preference – whether you prefer to have the chickens somewhere you can see them out of the windows or from a patio, or more hidden away from sight.
Whatever you decide to do, when it comes to keeping chickens always check with neighbours first, and if you plan to allow your chickens to roam free-range, ensure that the boundary of your garden is secure. You can then sit back and enjoy the company of a loving pet whilst tucking into a delicious, fresh, free-range egg!
![Conservatory versus summer house – the pros & cons]()
by Mark Bailey | Dec 16, 2015 | GardenLife Magazine
Conservatory versus summer house? Here’s our quick run down of the pros and cons followed by some detailed and important pointers:
Pros & Cons
|
Conservatory
|
Summer house
|
Self install available?
|
No |
Yes |
| Planning permission required? |
Possibly, check local laws |
Possibly, but not normally if the roof height is under 2.5m |
| Cost per square foot? |
High, on average £200 per sqr foot |
Low, £20 – £50 per sqr foot |
Location options?
|
Fixed to the house |
Anywhere in the garden |
| Direction faced? |
South |
Any direction |
| Added house value? |
Yes |
Yes |
| Sustainability options? |
Timber models only |
Yes |
| Maintenance required? |
Occasional cleaning with occasional timber treatment on wood framed models |
Occasional timber treatment |
1. What’s the difference between a conservatory, sunroom and summer house?
Conservatories are generally glass (or polycarbonate) rooms attached to a house. A key detail is that the roof is made from glass/polycarbonate, meaning that the sun shines straight into the room. Conservatories can come in different styles, from simple lean-to affairs to large bespoke orangeries. ConservatoryDesigns.co.uk has a good guide to different styles, helping you tell your gull wing from your P-shape.
Then there’s a sunroom, also sometimes referred to as a sun lounge or a garden room. This is also attached to the house, but has a solid roof, offering more protection from overhead sun and heat loss.
And then there are summer houses, and other garden buildings, such as garden offices. These may also be referred to as garden rooms, and can range from a simple timber pavilion to a fully-insulated multi-roomed home office.
2. The pros and the cons of a conservatory
The great benefit of a conservatory or sunroom is that you don’t have to leave the house to get there. Good news during showery weather. And because they are attached to the house, they minimize the space you have to give up in the garden.
However, both conservatories and sunrooms come with less desirable baggage. The anti-conservatory lobby say that a south-facing conservatory is too hot to step into for half the year. But a north-facing version, whilst perfect in summer, may feel Arctic in winter. The pro-conservatory lobby will say blinds and ventilation can tackle the former problems, and insulation and heating the latter. True enough, but these measures can add to the expense, sometimes considerably.
You are also limited in how you position the conservatory, especially if you live in a terraced home or have limited space at the side of the house. If the back of your house faces south, then so must your sunroom.
Lastly, many people find that in adding a conservatory, they ‘lose’ the room it is attached to. A room previously used as a dining or sitting room or a study may now seem more like a corridor on the way to the garden room. These are the main pros and the cons of a conservatory, however good design can mitigate against some of them (but this might require a more expensive bespoke solution).
3. Summer houses – the best alternative to a conservatory?
In contrast to conservatories, summer houses and garden rooms can be oriented any way you wish: for example, a sun room at the bottom of a south-facing garden could have the main doors and windows facing north. And corner summerhouses can be just as space-efficient in a small garden as a conservatory.
And if the 180-degree garden views available in a conservatory attached to the back of a house are insufficient for you, there are summer houses with 360-degree views (which simply can’t be replicated with a conservatory).
Secondly, free standing timber summer houses can offer more space for possessions as well as people. You could devote a corner of your new conservatory to lawnmowers, tools and bikes, but let’s just say the aesthetic appeal might be diminished. Of course, this would apply equally with a beautiful new summer house – hence the appeal of a garden room with a separate secure storage area (so you can keep your messy garden tools separate to your living space).
Ultimately, if you really like the idea of a sunroom extension but the cost and limited floor space is putting you off, a summer house is probably the best alternative to a conservatory.
4. Conservatory versus summer house – the questions to ask
There’s no right answer to the conservatory versus summer house debate. But whatever you buy, the important thing is to choose a style that will be spacious enough, warm enough, cool enough, robust enough, and loved enough by you and your family.
Here are some points to look for when trying to ensure those things:
- Look at the quality of materials used – for example, thicker, denser timber offers greater insulation, as do double-glazed windows.
- Think about ventilation – are there enough doors and windows to let in air if you want it, and are there tilt-turn windows to add flexibility?
- What flooring, insulation and security options are available?
- Think about how much of your garden will be taken up by the structure and mark out the area to understand the impact on the garden. Will it be too small or too big?
- Following on from the above, consider the overall internal floor space (which will be smaller than the building footprint). Will the conservatory or summer house be large enough to accommodate your furniture or hobbies? Again, marking out actual sizes on the ground can help.
If you’re inclined towards the conservatory route, there’s a good buying guide on the Telegraph website. And if you want to know what to look for when buying a summer house check out our buyer’s guide to timber garden buildings.
5. The practical part: price and planning permission
How much a conservatory or summer house costs is a difficult one because of the vast range of styles, sizes and designs. A common answer with conservatories is from £5,000 to £30,000, but with bespoke versions the upper limit will be higher. And the design details that make a conservatory practical and liveable – from double-glazing, to ventilation and underfloor heating can bring up the price considerably. Ultimately, adding a conservatory is the most expensive form of extension costing around £200 per sq foot.
With garden rooms, there is also a wide range of prices, depending on the spec chosen – from summer-only pavilion to year-round business HQ or accommodation – but it is usually easier to tell in advance how much the costs are because they are all-inclusive (including the building itself, roofing materials, accessories, delivery and installation, if required). They should also offer a much lower starting price – there are good quality summer houses starting from £1000 and well built summer houses should only cost £20 – £50 per sq foot (including ground work, foundations, roofing and installation, if required).
Finally, there is the issue of whether planning permission is required. With both conservatories and garden buildings, the answer is maybe. It will depend on their size, height, distance from the boundaries of your property, whether they contain sleeping accommodation, and so on. The rules differ slightly in England and Scotland, and also in certain conservation areas. Best thing is to check with your local council or check our guide to planning permission for summer houses.
Lastly, if you’re installing a conservatory or summer house to help add value to your home, remember it will only make your home more desirable and saleable if it is of high quality and well maintained (no one wants to buy a house with a damp draughty conservatory or dilapidated summer house that’s full of junk).
